Pool Deck

[thekl0wn]

A good friend recently just bought a house that has a nice in-ground pool in the back. Nothing spectacular, but the layout is pretty cool. I'll have pictures sometime soon hopefully. As of now, I just have questions! :D

Background: The current "deck" is all treated lumber that looks to be late 80's/early 90's material, and has never been stained. As you can imagine, some of the wood is pretty shot. The previous homeowner had next-to-no construction skills, so there have been some serious corners cut on the current setup. The liner needs to be replaced next summer, and he's saving up to do a deck remodel at the same time. Enter me (free labor)! I would not do this for free if he weren't a good friend, and the type of friend that's not going to have issues getting the correct materials, listening to me about the needed materials, providing the "grunt work", providing the beer, providing the place to stay after too much of said beer, renting the tools from either me, my father, or rental store that are needed to complete the project, and allowing me the time/space to complete the project correctly to give him an incredible back yard!

He originally thought composite... I'm not a fan. I just don't like the look, and I hate working with it. If he goes this route, I'll probably back out of the project. For the nearly the same price, he could go with Ipe... A wood I have a fair amount of experience with working for dad's company in the past. And we've turned out some beautiful products using this.

So on to my questions:

-Currently, the joists for the deck are treated 2X6's. Now before you say that's not enough, in their current state it is. They are physically touching the ground for their entire "span". I don't like this. For the majority of the deck, the span from the edge of the pool is about 4', and I would rather see the new joists actually span over the dirt, rather than lie in it. The new joists will be treated as well, I'm sure. (unless there are other suggestions) I haven't broke out a calculator for this yet, but I'm thinking a 2X8 over a 4' span should be sufficient. I'm sure to do this we'll have to 100% remove the current decking and scrape down another 4-6". Does this sound mildly correct?

-I've yet to draw this up in AutoCad, or anything similar, but what are some ideas on how to handle the pool corners? It's a simple rectangle. I'm thinking that spinning the joist span direction 180-degrees, and then running all of the deck boards "away" from the pool will look pretty slick. So basically, running all short boards, rather than long lengths. And then where they meet, having them angle at 45's. Yes, a fan would be awesome, but I don't think he makes quite that much money. The other option would be to run all of the boards the same way... Typical, but kind of boring.

Basically, I'm just spit-balling here, trying to come up with ideas for him. Any comments, questions, opinions, or other ideas are GREATLY welcomed! And I'll start in on getting some pictures of the current setup, some measurements, and then get it drawn up. I just have to get a rough idea spec'd out, so I can turn the plans into dad, so he can give the rough estimate... And then listen to my buddy say, "Eh, I'll just have stamped concrete poured..." :cool:

[Don]

What is the spacing of the existing 2 x 6, if you are 16"-24" it should be fine for a deck. Most deck situations get by with 2x6, maybe 2x8 around the perimeter. I just reworked my deck a couple of years ago. Here in Florida everything stays wet during the summer rainy season and mildew on deck work is problem. Any kind of wood in this situation really catches it - I went with composite and stainless screws. Pressure wash it and it's as good as new. We can put a lot of love and craftsmanship into a deck only to have it take a beating and look like crap a few years hence. I'm not a fan of doing intensive woodworking only to have nature take it away. The climate really dictates what you can get away with over time. I can see beautiful redwood decks in mild-hot dry climates but that's about it.

Talk your buddy into that concrete then go have a beer with him beside the pool when it's done. We all get a bit over zealous with ideas on a new house. One thing I've learned is go for longevity and ease of maintenence - you'll have enough to do as it is.

All the best, Don

[thekl0wn]

Ipe will withstand the Southern Indiana climate for years, without EVER being touched! :eek:

We did a dock a little over 12 years ago in Ipe, and it's never been sealed, stained, or had any other treatment other than washed with a 5-gallon bucket of lake water and a soft brush. Still beautiful, and not a single warped board in the 800+ square feet. It just turns a very exotic silver. So for that portion of it, I see nothing wrong with it.

And I'm still urging him (as well as a few other buddies) to have stamped concrete poured. He doesn't like the look of concrete, but I'm gonna take him out on a few jobsites that have had stamped & stained concrete poured. I think he'll love it. Best part is, another good buddy of ours does this for a living, and I'm sure would cut him a deal on it! Especially if it were one of those Friday night/Saturday morning beer drinking ordeals, and a few of us with concrete experience helped out.

We'll just have to see whether he's willing to take those mothballs out of his wallet though...

[Don]

Not familiar with Ipe, but just read up on it. Wow, sounds like a wonderwood. But at over $6.00 a bd ft it could get pricey. More money than composite and that's bad enough. But it sure is pretty. I'll have to look into getting my hands on some. PT is just so common around here that you usually don't think of anything else.

dawjr

[thekl0wn]

Word of advice when working with this wood: Don't drop it in the lake. It don't float! :eek:

And I can get 1X6" for about $2.75/bdft around here, or 5/4X6" for about $3.50/bdft. In quantity of course. Plus $100 s/h for the load. This is from the local (large manufacturing type) cabinet shop.

[thekl0wn]

A site that sells it: http://www.abswood.com/pages/price.htm

Looks like they deliver to Jacksonville as well! :D

[thekl0wn]

Showed him stamped/stained concrete yesterday. He's in love.

He also fell in love with the flagstone used in the retaining walls alongside it. So it sounds like I'm not gonna have to do any thinking on this one! Though it does sound like I'm gonna wind up driving a wheelbarrow now... :eek:

[Jammin]

Every state has different building codes so it is difficult to tell you what to do for sure
1) are you in a frost area in winter. If so the deck must be on concrete that is 4' below grade. Then the best thing is a beam for support on concrete and deck on top of beam. No matter what I would not have PT deck sitting on dirt
2) Use any type of decking you want but dont 45 the joints where the decking butt together. Over time the wood will twist/dry out/ shrink and then you will have a sharp edge exposed to bare feet. Fan out joints every 2 joists with 12' decking and repeat. It will look great when it is done

[thekl0wn]

Every state has different building codes so it is difficult to tell you what to do for sure
1) are you in a frost area in winter. If so the deck must be on concrete that is 4' below grade. Then the best thing is a beam for support on concrete and deck on top of beam. No matter what I would not have PT deck sitting on dirt
2) Use any type of decking you want but dont 45 the joints where the decking butt together. Over time the wood will twist/dry out/ shrink and then you will have a sharp edge exposed to bare feet. Fan out joints every 2 joists with 12' decking and repeat. It will look great when it is done

He's pretty much made up his mind to go with concrete. :D

1.) Agreed.

2.) That's why PT wasn't considered. The Ipe and other woods like it aren't going to have these issues, unless we're talking maybe 20 years or more down the road.