New Grizzly Table saw arrived

[bogydave]

Friday afternoon, I am a proud owner of a new table saw. :)
I learned to hate cosmolene!!!
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/Grztblsaw1.jpg
Set up was a learning experience. I followed the instructions in order but they don't put the order of importance first. The last sections of the instructions called for checking the saw blade alignment. (This should be first.) Which meant if it was off all of the other alignments you just made would be effected. It was off, so after unbolting the top, shimming & tweeking it to square at 90 & 45 & miter groves squared. I had to go back & align from page 1 again. Maybe this is so you learn the alignment steps well. Also I did not assemble it as the instructions said. With the extension table you were not supposed to install the right cast iron wing. The instruction don't tell you not to until after they tell you to. (note at bottom of page: don't install the right wing on the SLX model yet). So I added the extension tabel to the right wing. I only had to drill 6 - 3/8" hole in the extension table to bolt it in place. I liked it cause I gained more table top, plus I think the cast iron wing is allot more stable saw top surface. That is why the picture don't match the catalog picture. When I fired it up it had a little vibration, I checked the belts & tightened them a little but one belt is a little longer than the others & I believe this is the one vibrating. It may "run in" as it gets used.
Man does it cut nice. (Forrest WW2 combo blade)Taking all the time to align it pays off. It will take some time to get used to having the blade on the bottom of the cut instead of the top like my ras, plus you don't see the cut start like the ras, you have to trust that it's on then the blade cuts thru the top of the board & you can see it. Just different for me.
The long "Shop Fox" fence allows for a 54" right side cut. It was easy to install & align. (again, read all the instructions, then go back to step 1 to install, who ever does that). Will post Questions as I get used to using a table saw. Like when cross cutting, how do you know you're on the mark? (been many years since high school shop class)
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/Grztblsaw2.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/Grztblsaw3.jpg

[JasonB]

saweet! I think I may be just a little jealous! looks like a nice saw.

[Don]

Very nice, Bogy. As far as knowing you are on the mark - forget marks. That's what the tape on the fence is for. Make a test cut, measure that piece and then set the hairline to that reading on the tape. If you need to cut to a mark, just measure it then set it. If still want to cut to the mark, make a test "nick" and adjust. You won't have a problem. like you said, just a matter of getting used to.

I agree with you on the iron extension, there's no way that thing would have become scrap.

Congrats on a very nice machine.

dawjr

[jcclark]

For being "on the mark" for cross-cutting, screw a wood block
to your miter gage a little longer than needed, then let the saw cut it
to length and that will be your edge to allign by.
(the freshly cut edge of the block)

I usually strike a line (with a square) on the piece to cut,
then lean down to sight the line against the blade before pushing to cut.
I can get real accurate that way:)

I've been useing a Grizzly saw like yours for about 15 yrs now,
it's been a great saw.

[Dagster]

Nothing better than a new tool or machine!

[bogydave]

I got the tape measure right on but I thought that was just for ripping, but I see how you can use it for miter cuts. Tks
I like the idea of a piece of wood on the miter gauge, that will help also. Tks

While I was just test cutting with the miter gauge, the cut off end (3/4" X 5" X 5" white oak) somehow, got grabbed by the blade, knocked the blade cover off, threw the wood against the garage door (20' behind me), put a big gash in it, then hit my grandaughter on the shoulder. (she was 10' behind me & got small cut & a bruise, was glad she had safety glasses & earmuffs on). Scared the hello out of me. After some first aid & getting yelled at from Grandma, I put the zero clearance insert in, hoping that was part of the reason. (don't know if the front or back of the blade grabed the wood)
Any other (preventable) reasons I need to know about?

I routed a pattern of the zero clearance insert, when I make more, do I need to add small screws to level it or just use the correct thickness of wood? The factory one is made of some pretty heavy MDF or masonite like material (1/2" thick), & has 4 screws used to adjust to flush with the top.
The book says to make one for the dado also, ? is, different ones for dado widths?
Also what about 45 degree cuts, I wont be able to use the zero insert for that? Use the regular insert for angle cuts?

I cut a grove in the concrete floor & installed conduit & 240Vto the saw & a 120V outlet at the end of the table, so I don't have an AC cord to walk over.

[jcclark]

I don't understand what happened there, I don't think the insert
had any role in it. I hope you were'nt useing the miter gage to hold
the stock while rideing along the fence too, that's a no-no.
Don't use both at the same time.

And yes, you need a insert with a wider opening for a daddo blade.
I found a alluminim one made for a Delta fit my Grizzly so I use that,
but you could very well make your own.

You need to figure out why that accident happened so you
don't repeat it. I can't think of why it did that.
Probably something simple, usually is.:)

[Terry Mac]

Cheers Dave!

Nice looking machine, congrats!

[dpmcreations]

Congrats on the purchase.. I am sure you will just love it.. Let us know how things are going and how you like the machine... Hmm jealousy strikes I need a new tool.....