View Full Version : dado vs. straight bit
muffinman
01-30-2008, 06:40 AM
Hello,
I am new to wood working and plan to purchase my first router. Based on reviews I have chosen the triton 2-1/4 HP Plunge Router. My first task with the router is to make some very basic notches in 2X4's (the notches will be as wide as a 2X4). What type of bit do I use? Do I use a straight bit or a dado bit? They both seem to be able to make the grove I am looking to cut. Any advice?
Thanks.
bogydave
01-30-2008, 07:29 AM
Welcome
Hay, I just bought a new router:), Is the triton variable speed?
Dado in the face or the edge of the 2X4? & how deep? will help decide.
Typically, dado bits don't go as deep as a straight bit.
With either bit you'll need multiple passes so the guide/fence will need adjusted after each pass.
Key is to Practice on a old piece of 2x4 to get used to the router & verify the correct depth.
I have always used my radial arm saw for dados like your talking about. So as far as which bit, I'd use a straight one since that's all I have for my new router (Bosch 2-1/4 hp kit) that would make this cut (my dado bit has a fixed bearing on the bottom). I'm using the "buy a good bit as you need it" approach to build up a bit index. I'm also curious to what the woodworking gurus say is the right way. I'm sure they will steer you in the right direction.
Let us know how you like the triton router.
muffinman
01-30-2008, 02:17 PM
I will need the cut on the side about 2 inches deep. The boards are long and I have many cuts to make so I don’t think a mounted router will work. I tried the circular saw to create the notches but it took about 20 passes each and the end result was not very smooth (not to mention the weight of the saw!). I have to make about 32 notches.
Hey, muffinman and welcome to the forum. Wow, you are making some heavy notches. As Dave allowed, for what you are doing a radial arm saw and dado head would make much quicker work of it. Table saw and dado head next. You may want to consider making a narrow saw cut on either side of your notch and then "knock" out the waste, finish up by cleaning the bottom with your new router. (this method is probably what I would do, sounds like you are making notches for shelving) For the depth that you will be trying to reach I think that a straight cut bit will be the only ones available that will be deep enough.
Consider a bit like this;
http://www.woodcraft.com/images/family/web8006.jpg
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=8006
or any of these;
http://www.woodcraft.com/depts.aspx?DeptID=1149
See what you think of this and let us know.
dawjr
muffinman
01-30-2008, 03:31 PM
Thanks for the replies (and pictures too!). This group is great. I am making loft beds for the kids (posting a picture which shows the notches I need). I need to make 4 beds. I don’t have a table saw and was hoping that the router would save some time/work (not to mention an excuse to buy one -haha). I guess routers are meant for shallower cuts. Thanks again for the advice.
http://gamesprouts.com/images/loftbed4.jpg
I'd have at those with my Bosch jig saw. They'd all be done in an hour and work great in that type of lumber. Looks like you'll have to get a really good jigsaw too.
dawjr
bogydave
01-30-2008, 10:31 PM
Looks like you need to make several dados in the same location in the 2X4,
Here's an idea. Line up & clamp the 2Xs together, mark both sides of the notch. Clamp a straight edge for the circ saw to ride against to cut the 1-1/2", 1-5/8" depending on the 2x4 thickness, deep right on one line, then move the straight edge & cut the other line. Next you can free hand 3 or 4 or 10 more circ saw runs between the good marks & knock out the left over. Knocking out a full 3-1/2" somtimes breaks into the good side. Leave them clamped, position a straight edge for the router & clean up with the router if you don't want to hand clean the notches out. Hope it helps.
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