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bogydave
01-17-2008, 12:44 PM
While waiting for the glue to show up I tinker'd in the shop & came up with this drill press table & sliding fence. (can't draw like Don but can take pictures) Saw a picture of one somewhere. No patent laws broken I hope (Notice the good old #12 solid copper wire holding the drill handle down so I can use both hands.)
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/drlprestbl-fence.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/drlprestbl1.jpg
For the Drill arc, I chucked a sharpie & swung the table. This also lets you know if the table is level. I started flatening the sharpie when I swung the table left. (remind me to go back & adjust that).

Cut a fence 2-1/2" wide & 4" longer than the table. Glued a slide on each side 1/16" thinner than the top, (used 1 piece of paper (.003) as a spacer on one side, so it would be a little loose
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/fence1.jpg
Cut a piece of emery cloth (120 grit I think) & glued it to one side of the fence board.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/fence2.jpg
Made some knobs
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/Knobs1.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/knobs2.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/knobs3.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/knobs4.jpg
Had to put picture on continue drill press thread (Only 8 per post I found out)
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/knobs5.jpg[/IMG]
Made a clamp for each side. 1/4" hole then 21/64" then put the nut on a bolt & tap it in the hole (soft wood), Pulled it out, a little 5 min epoxy & tap it back in.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/clamp1.jpg[/IMG]
Add a piece of sandpaper for friction grip. A spacer so it pinches on the table bottom. A 1-1/4" sheetrock screw loose enough to let the clamp drop when knobs are loosened but stay fairly straight & not fall off when the knob comes out all the way.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/clamp3.jpg[/IMG]
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/clamp4.jpg[/IMG]

One side has a sandpaper friction fence
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/fence3.jpg[/IMG]

Other side is smothe.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/fence4.jpg[/IMG]

Slides front & back pretty good & locks down solid. Has a little play when sliding (within 1/4" corner to corner) but allot better than what I had.
I need to make some stops & hold down yet. Something to do while I watch glue dry.

bogydave
01-17-2008, 12:51 PM
Hope this ain't cheeting. Only 8 pics per post. If a bad thing, won't do it ever again. :)
5 min epoxy on carriage bolt & tightened it up with a washer & nut, let dry.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/knobs5.jpg
Made a clamp for each side. 1/4" hole then 21/64" then put the nut on a bolt & tap it in the hole (soft wood), Pulled it out, a little 5 min epoxy & tap it back in.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/clamp1.jpg
Add a piece of sandpaper for friction grip. A spacer so it pinches on the table bottom. A 1-1/4" sheetrock screw loose enough to let the clamp drop when knobs are loosened but stay fairly straight & not fall off when the knob comes out all the way.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/clamp3.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/clamp4.jpg

One side has a sandpaper friction fence
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/fence3.jpg

Other side is smothe.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/fence4.jpg

Slides front & back pretty good & locks down solid. Has a little play when sliding (within 1/4" corner to corner) but allot better than what I had.
I need to make some stops & hold down yet. Something to do while I watch glue dry.

Don
01-17-2008, 01:22 PM
Hey, Bogy. Cool fence. Here's some interesting links for jig components,

Go to this site and search, threaded hole knobs or threaded stud knobs - you will be amazed at the selections. It really makes jig work like this professional looking and easy
to adjust. http://www.mcmaster.com/

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/knobs/FormRound.gif

Also you can search for t-slot nuts, these work in the slot for various tables and make setups on the tables quick and easy.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/nuts/94750a583_70.gif

Everybody should have a set of these by their drill press,

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90752

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/90700-90799/90752.gif

Once you have a set of these you will wear them out for doing special set-ups and heavy drilling.

dawjr

p.s. What program are you using to resize your pictures? Making them smaller like you are doing makes the post so much more interesting to look at and read. Well done.

Don
01-17-2008, 01:31 PM
Little valuable tidbits you pick up. I never considered swinging the table to check level, neat tip.

dawjr

Dagster
01-17-2008, 03:30 PM
Nice work. It is probably best if you continue your original thread though. Splitting them up makes it hard to follow the entire process.

bogydave
01-17-2008, 10:15 PM
DUH.! I never thought that logical. That is, well, logical.
Sometimes you can't take the dumb out of a Hillbilly.
Maybe it was the glue.
But Harbor Freight I got. Never noticed the fittings. Tks.
I use MS picture manager. I'm sure there's a better way, like copy to word, pdf or something like that & then copy to the "post". Learning curve slow here. As the way I posted the above.
Can this thread be "cut/paste" to the first one as a reply? That way you see the first one first (if youknow what I'm digg'n)
I'm an old dog learning new tricks. Well trying new tricks.
Thanks for the feedback

Dagster
01-17-2008, 10:36 PM
Don might be able to merge the threads. Lets see if he can do it :D

bogydave
01-18-2008, 09:44 AM
Yeh, it confuses me & I wrote it

Don
01-18-2008, 12:46 PM
There you go, boys. Our first "merged" thread.

When we first started, the admin only had us a max of four pics. I went back and had them double it because I saw that most of our pics were "process"

I like the smaller and unusual sized photos that Bogy used on this post, it adds interest and allows you to look at more without scrolling. Process pictures don't really need to be that large, it just takes bandwidth everytime someone calls for the page. As our site grows that could be a problem, so always consider the size of your pics.

I have my camera set up for the smallest size 640 x 480 and that allows me to post without resizing, some of mine could have been smaller, but that's a resize and more time on my part. But if you have a feature pic or something that needs to show the detail then by all means let us see it.

Bogy, what process are you using to resize your pics? That might be a quicker method than I'm using, Photo Resizer Pro.

Anyway, as Dagster pointed out, a continuation of a thread should be on the next post to keep your work and people's comments together. There is so much good information on this site already. When people search the archives later we want them (and us) to be able to find stuff as easy as possible. It's going to be up to us as early members to remember and possibly help direct people to work and answers that are buried.

All the best, Don

bogydave
01-18-2008, 09:53 PM
Super Don, you're good.
Glad Dagster was smarter than me & came up with the idea.
MicroSoft Photo manager, click resize & usually 20%.
Sometimes I crop first then shrink, to get the un-needed background stuff out of the pic & the small size uploads to Photobucket allot faster.

Don
01-19-2008, 12:40 AM
Tell my wife.

Looks like you are going through a similar process to crop and resize, I thought there might be something new that was just a little quicker.

dawjr

Terry Mac
01-23-2008, 06:10 PM
*claps for first merged thread*

*then drinks a beer in honor of same*

Hey bogy, I'm learning alot, keep it coming.

dpmcreations
01-29-2008, 01:24 AM
With the price of Copper... that is one hell of a handle holder.... LOL

bogydave
01-29-2008, 06:22 AM
Electricians can really turn things on. Even retired ones.
Code for this use is #12 solid.
TM is a baling wire guy. It's cheaper & works.