PDA

View Full Version : 1930's Walker Turner L30-A Lathe Restoration


Dagster
01-16-2008, 02:55 PM
Hi guys,

Thought you might like to see my restoration as it progresses. So far I have sand blasted the castings and will be priming them tonight. I'll be painting it a nice deep green very similar to original.

Here is the lathe as I received it, same condition as 10 years ago when I bought it. I did clean it up a little but it is pretty much as it was. In this picture, with the help of a friend I have already removed the head stock, you can see it there between the ways. The tolerances were good but the spindle has some pitting. We'll be turning a new one anyway to receive more modern plates etc...

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/lathe1.jpg


Closer picture of the tail stock and the spindle pitting. The portions of the spindle that are in contact with the bronze bearings are in ok shape though.

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/lathe2.jpg


More pictures
http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/lathe3.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/lathe4.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/lathe5.jpg

Here are the pictures of the castings after blasting
http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/latheblasted1.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/latheblasted2.jpg

Don
01-16-2008, 04:46 PM
Will be a TLU, (tight little unit)

dawjr

Terry Mac
01-16-2008, 08:56 PM
Dag that is gonna be one nice lathe. WT's are really good machines. Looking forward to the next series of photos in the resto process. Deep green gonna be sweet!

Oh, hey, how long did it take to bead blast everything?

Dagster
01-16-2008, 09:19 PM
It took about an hour and a half but that was including quite a bit of time waiting for the compressor to catch up. I'd say a total of maybe 40 minutes of actual blasting time. Of course there was a beer in there too.

I should have some updated photos by morning. Probably pics with primer.

bogydave
01-17-2008, 10:49 AM
Nice find. Tools like that never wear out

Dagster
01-17-2008, 03:22 PM
Here are most of the parts in primer...still wet. I should have them all finished and ready for paint tomorrow. I'll be starting on the new arbor tomorrow as well.

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/primer1.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/primer2.jpg

Dagster
01-19-2008, 11:06 PM
Ok, here is the progress on the spindle. We finished turning it and have it ready to mount. I just need to put my finish paint on before doing so.

http://www.garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/turningspindle.jpg


http://www.garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/spindlepulleyflat1.jpg

http://www.garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/spindlepulleyflat.jpg

Milling the flat spot for the pulley set screw to ride on.
http://www.garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/spindlepulleyflat2.jpg

This is the hollowed out bolt that will fit over the spindle. It is a 3/4 - 16 TPI bolt so it will accept a wide variety of modern plates, chucks etc...
http://www.garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/bolt.jpg

http://www.garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/bolt2.jpg

Here is the headstock as it will be mounted once the cast iron is painted the finish color.
http://www.garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/headstock.jpg

Terry Mac
01-23-2008, 09:11 PM
Looking good Dag.

That's some darn good machining going on.

Keep the pics coming.

Dagster
01-24-2008, 01:25 AM
Throwing on a couple coats of hunter green. I've got 3 coats on so far. Gonna probably let these dry over night and then hit one last coat tomorrow to get any light spots. I think it is a great color. I'll post some wet pics in a bit.

Dagster
01-24-2008, 02:01 AM
Ok, a couple of pics. I'll include more tomorrow.

Here is the tail stock center re-ground to an appropriate point.

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/tailcenter.jpg

Here is the color. The part in the foreground isn't the true color, the flash bleached it out. the one in the background is more true to the real hunter green color.

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/green.jpg

bogydave
01-24-2008, 08:21 AM
Gona be like new or better.
Can't wait to se what the first thing you turn on it.
Great job.
Had a 51 Ford PU that had hunter green fenders, red hood & bed, and a black cab.
Hunter green been around for a long time.

Dagster
01-25-2008, 03:59 PM
I'll be putting the final coat if paint on tonight. I'm hoping to have pictures of it assembled tomorrow evening.

My first turning project will probably be a duck call. That is what sparked the whole restoration. I've had the lathe for 10 years or more and just used it for the occasional small turning. It's been in the attic for the last 5 years though. I decided I wanted to turn my own duck call so I dusted it off but found the tailstock was too rounded to support turning acrylic. I then researched the lathe with a neighbor and we found that is was quite the period piece so the restoration began!

It might be a sin but my first piece turned on it will be acrylic, then maybe a wood call.

bogydave
01-26-2008, 12:23 AM
Dag
Where are you going to get reeds from? Just use replacements for factory ones or are you making them?
While your'e at it are you making decoys?
Got a while before hunting season starts so you;ll be set up.
Took me a while to get used to the steel shot. Just started using i size bigger shot size.
QUaaa..ack Quaa..ack ,Qua..ack Quack Quak (horny mallard call)

Dagster
01-26-2008, 12:51 AM
You can buy mylar by the sheet but I'll probably buy die cut reeds for my first attempt. I'm going to a sportsmans show Sunday and I should be able to get reeds there.

I'm not going to be making decoys. I'm not sure I have the patience to build something that I'll end up thrashing. :D

I'm hoping to get some calling tips while at the show. A lot of call makers will be there.

Might buy one of these while I'm there as well: http://www.taylortalkers.com/

Dagster
01-26-2008, 03:45 PM
Crap, ran out of paint last night and my final coat got wrinkles in it. I'm going to have to sand some small spots lightly today and get another can of paint for the final coat.

Darren

Dagster
01-27-2008, 05:42 PM
Ok, she's finished! I'm very happy with the finished product. It has been restored properly and should last many years to come.

Before:
http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/lathe4.jpg

After:

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/finished.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/finished1.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/finished2.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/finished3.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/finished4.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/latherestoration/finished5.jpg

bogydave
01-27-2008, 09:47 PM
Where did you find such an old lathe in such new condition? :p :)
Nice work.
Of course you know that now, it needs it's own stand.

JasonB
01-28-2008, 12:23 AM
hey Dag, thats awsome! looks great! I wish I knew enough about metal work to manufacture my own parts as you have.
I've got an old bandsaw I've been meaning to do this to. I think you have motivated me! now I just gotta get that garrage cleaned up!

Dagster
01-28-2008, 01:05 AM
Thanks guys.

JasonB, the trick is having a friend that knows how to machine :D I've been over at his place watching and learning!

Yeah, the stand is next. Just need to decide what material I want to use. Maybe birch cabinet grade ply or something.

Terry Mac
01-28-2008, 09:32 PM
Wow!!!

That's sweeeeet Dag. Very nice job.

Old WT's have a great history, and you have one that you brought back to life. The green really did come out well. :)

woodman43
01-28-2008, 09:56 PM
Nice work Dagster!
Let me ask you this since you refurbish old machines.
Would it be cheaper to buy a new lathe or refurbish an old one.
My wife has been wanting to learn to turn and I thought that it would give her a great hobby that we could work together on.

Dagster
01-28-2008, 10:01 PM
I wouldn't say I'm all that experienced in refurbishing them but I do like to bring them back to life if I find one I'm confident I can work with.

As far as which is more cost effective. Well, I bought this lathe for $5.00, I spent $16 on paint and used a friends bead blaster. We turned a new arbor but the old one was in good shape. Actually the picture is with the old one installed. I spent $9.99 on a new pulley, $3.00 or so on hardware.

So, for $34.00 I have a brand new no frills lathe. Keep in mind you'll need a motor for it but you can find cheap motors at garage sale etc... I have no fewer than 3 laying around at any given time. I'd say go for it if you find one that is in half decent shape. :D Fixing them up is half the fun.

Dagster
01-28-2008, 10:20 PM
And now a preview of a future project. It works well but could use a little tlc to bring back the shine :D I'm not sure what year this is as I haven't researched it. I got it for $50.00 about 7 years ago. It's an 8 inch. It could use more torque but it does work well.

http://garagehobbies.com/images/dewaltradialarm/radialarm.jpg

http://garagehobbies.com/images/dewaltradialarm/radialarm1.jpg

bogydave
01-29-2008, 07:28 AM
Looks like cast aluminum. Will that be more difficult to paint & match factory color?

As for the torque. Check with an electric motor rewind shop. With better insulation on the new winding wire they may be able to beef you up 1/2 hp or more. They may even be able to wind it for 120/220 V. Depending on the construction of the armature & field. I don't know the RPM of an 8" saw, but they can wind for that also or higher. (2 or 3 speeds, a good motor shop can do allot). New manifold with a 4 barrel carb & headers. Now were talkin. Might swing the dado blade better. (it looks like a dado on there now anyway)

Dagster
01-29-2008, 02:55 PM
The motor housing is cast aluminum or magnesium. The base is of course sheet steel. The arm is all cast iron. I will probably just use paint stripper on this item. I'm going to look for a similar blue hammer finish paint and see what I can find. I'm guessing this is about 1950 - 1955. The absense of wood handles makes me think maybe 1955.

Yup, that's a dado blade on there. It can bog it down if I don't take smaller bites. I might have to look into getting the motor rewound. I'll check that out. For now it sits idle though. I have other projects to tend to.

Darren

Terry Mac
01-29-2008, 10:11 PM
The motor housing is cast aluminum or magnesium. The base is of course sheet steel. The arm is all cast iron. I will probably just use paint stripper on this item. I'm going to look for a similar blue hammer finish paint and see what I can find. I'm guessing this is about 1950 - 1955. The absense of wood handles makes me think maybe 1955.



RAS is a pretty good job to tear into. The old DeWalts are very good machines when restored and tuned. You've got a nice one there Dag.

When you get to the point of stripping the paint, i've used in the past a 3M product called "safest stripper". No gloves and works really well. Just wondering though if you've considered electrolysis though?

Also, the blue hammer finish, i've found rattle cans at auto parts stores that looks like it'll come close to the color of your machine.

Let us know when you start on that bad boy.

Dagster
01-29-2008, 10:14 PM
RAS is a pretty good job to tear into. The old DeWalts are very good machines when restored and tuned. You've got a nice one there Dag.

When you get to the point of stripping the paint, i've used in the past a 3M product called "safest stripper". No gloves and works really well. Just wondering though if you've considered electrolysis though?

Also, the blue hammer finish, i've found rattle cans at auto parts stores that looks like it'll come close to the color of your machine.

Let us know when you start on that bad boy.


I'm not familiar with electrolysis... spendy? I assume I'd have to take my parts somewhere?

I'd love to restore the badges and stickers but I'd lose the stickers if I fully restored it. The badges can be removed and reinstalled though. I also know the machine really should have a new coat of primer and paint to stop the surface rust.

I'll have to really consider my options.