Saw blade test data

[bogydave]

New saw blade test (RE-test)
Explain why retested:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jsp?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/1197909616100.xml

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/WOOD-Saw-Blades-II-The-Retest.pdf

Looks like the new Freud Fusion P410 backed up the hype I've read about.

[bogydave]

Has anyone tried the Freud fusion P410? $100
When I buy another blade, this was going to be my first choice but I see the there's a Sears blade that rated well for less money the 32808, $40.

[woodman43]

Wow. The blades I use ended up last.
It really amazes me that any blade over $35.00 rates less than a A.
When you are going to charge that much money for something it had better perform with excellence.
I would like to try one of the Freud blades, just tough to drop that much money on something that consist of so little.
OK, I'll stop babbling now.

[bogydave]

OK guys. most of you said buy a good blade.
Well I bought a new saw. (well it's on order) and it does not come with a blade. :(
So I also ordered a Forrest WWII 40 tooth combo.

[Dagster]

Any blade that costs $100 had better make me coffee in the morning as well.

I usually buy $50 blades. Once in a blue moon I may get a wild hair and buy a $75 blade but only if it looks cool :D

[bogydave]

Forrest WWII:
The hype with good saw blades is that the better one have better carbide tips & some last (stay sharp) 300% longer. May just be hype though, I'll know in a year or so. This is 1st time ever spent that much for 1 blade. It did rate #1 on the above test. That did sway me some. Just want to know for myself if it is that much better.

[Terry Mac]

Any blade that costs $100 had better make me coffee in the morning as well.



And I could add to that list for $100 bucks.

A good blade does make a difference. But I'm really cheap, and will still go to Ace and buy a $17 buck Irwin, before buying a Freud.

[bogydave]

I plan to save the sawdust & scraps I cut with this blade & burn it in my woodstove with a coffee pot on it. Let me know when you plan to visit & the pot will be on. Bring you own coasters to put on the workbench. Hey, they are made in the USA, according to the Leevally catalog. That was also part of my reason.

[Dagster]

I plan to save the sawdust & scraps I cut with this blade & burn it in my woodstove with a coffee pot on it. Let me know when you plan to visit & the pot will be on. Bring you own coasters to put on the workbench. Hey, they are made in the USA, according to the Leevally catalog. That was also part of my reason.

He he, that's making your money work for you... I like mine thick with cream and sugar :D

[Domer]

In addition, you can send Forrest blades back to Forrest to resharpen for about the same money as you can have it sharpened by a local sharpener.

I am told that they also check it out for flatness and make sure it comes back to you with original specks.

That is worth something as well.

[mmwood_1]

I've gone through 3 freuds over the past 14 years. I have the 80 tooth ATB crosscut blade. One of the differences between it and others I've used is vibration. When I'm cutting joints, I want NO GAPS. Some blades wobble slightly, enough that you don't get an absolutely clean cut. Not this blade.

I've also gone through a couple of Matsushita thin kerf 60 tooth rip blades. I've now been using an Orion combo blade for some of my ripping and general rough cutting, and a 7 1/4" Matsushita combo blade for a lot of my rough ripping. As long as the stock isn't too thick, it zips right through and at 1/3 the cost of the 10" blade. And the darn thing is, I need to have 2 each of the crosscut blades and rip blades, because it's a one week turn around on sharpening.

And then there are my planer knives on the 16" Makita planer (#2040). Cripes, $100/ set and they're not even carbide tipped! 2 sets of those too!

[bogydave]

You are makin allot of sawdust.
Who does your sharpening? I see some online advertisements, but shipping cost is the killer for me.

[mmwood_1]

You are makin allot of sawdust.
Who does your sharpening? I see some online advertisements, but shipping cost is the killer for me.

I have them done by a local saw and machine shop. At that, it's a 1 week turn around. No way am I going to send them away to get sharpened. This place, D & M Saw, does a very good job. They will also modify or make bits. And they have pick up and delivery service within 30 miles.

[dpmcreations]

Coffee made by the blade.. How about expresso.... Hell even my girlfriend won't make me coffee... I need to buy a couple of them... LOL...

Honestly though, I have had good luck with both inexpensive blades as well as expensive blades, but the key is to keep them SHARP and balanced and your saw always in balance... Good cutting all

[mmwood_1]

but the key is to keep them SHARP and balanced and your saw always in balance... Good cutting all


What do you mean by "balanced"? How do you balance a blade? Or a saw for that matter?

[dpmcreations]

Some of the blades are much better balanced coming from the manufacturer.. You may buy an expensive blade or a cheap blade, but some of them spin better than others.. From other posts, they mention wobble.. That is in essence what I mean by balance.. I have to say, that some of the better blades offer sharpening and balancing when you purchase them and to tell you the truth, that is sometimes worth every cent... Unless you have a sharpening extrordinare near you...

[splinters]

I use Forrest blades on my TS and CMS and my panel saw. When the one on my TS gets ready for sharpening, I switch over to my thin kerf Forrest unitl the 1/8" comes back from Forrest sharpening. I have a couple Freud blades....just havent had the opportunity to try them yet. Keep your eyes on Amazon...they just had teh WWII 40 tooth 10" blade on sale for $72.00. Back up to $110 today, but they do that all the time. You cant beat a Forrest blade. A sharp blade is also much safer. Dont be penny wise and fingerless foolish.:D