Workbench steps 3 & 4

[bogydave]

Step 3 dog & alignment

Doweled in all the dog spacers at 3 degrees toward end vise location
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/dogboard.jpg[/IMG]

Dog up
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/dogup.jpg[/IMG]

Dog down
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/dogdown.jpg[/IMG]

Checked alignment (pre-glue check). drilled 3 3/8" holes thru the top & used all thread & rods to check alignment.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/pre-gluealignck.jpg[/IMG]

Step 4: cut out pieces for the base
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/BaseStrechers.jpg[/IMG]

How to connect the stretchers? I wanted to use a 1" dia. or larger barrel nut about 3" in the stretchers with 3/8" or 5/16" bolts. So far I haven't found any barrel nuts large enough. Reason is if the base ever gets loose (humidity up or down) I can tighten the bolts. I can always make some, but it'd very time consuming.
Also: how to connect the trestle together? (bolts, lag screws, Glue?)?
Any ideas? Would like to be able to tighten it if it gets loose.
Material: trestle is a left over 4" X 12" header from shop construction 3-1/2" X 3-1/2".
stretchers are from a 1-3/4" X 12" laminated header (20 years+ old)1-3/4 X 4"
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/Benchbase.jpg[/IMG]

[Don]

Hey, Bogy. Very well done so far. I've attached stretchers using a simple all-thread method. About 6-8" up from the end of the stretcher you can drill out a hole (or a couple vertical) that will fit a nut, you don't have to use a barrel nut, a regular nut will work just fine. Back it up with a semi-circle block of material in the tension side of the hole.

I also would cut one of the "feet' shy and place an adjuster bolt in it that you could twist from the top, an easy way to make sure it sits level and does not rock. No shims on the floor.

Thanks for the pictures, this is going to be a great bench. You'll have to build another just to work on.

All the best, Don

[bogydave]

Like both ideas. Thanks.
The Dap, plastic resin glue must be a rare earth compound. (it is in Alaska)
Found it 2 places, one place wants $75 (include ship'g) Got it ordered thru ACE for $32.
When you read the specs fo the glue, you'd think it would be used by lots of woodworkers and be readily avaliable. Rated to use for cutting board, kitchen counters etc. Anti bacterial. Meets some Government spec.
Worth the wait. (2 weeks) Should be enough time to adjust my old jointer & build a stand & feed tables for my little 733 Dewalt planer. Tks again.

[bogydave]

Don, Is this what you were calling a semi circle block?
I made some halfmoon spacers to bolt the workbench base together.
I used a hole saw in a 5/4 board then split them on a band saw & drilled a 3/8" hole.
The first one I hole sawed into the face of the board.The End grain spacer are brittle.
The second ones I hole sawed into the end grain as far as the hole saw would go (about 1-1/2"), split them on the band saw then cut them off with band saw. They are tougher spacers and less prone to break.
Drilled up through the feet & into the leg. 6" X 3/8" bolts
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/halfmoonspacer.jpg[/IMG]
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/Trestlefoottoleg.jpg[/IMG]

Then thru the leg into the stretcher.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/stretchertoleg.jpg[/IMG]

I Might need to drill another access hole on the nut side. The nuts tightened OK with needle nose but wrench access would be nice. Base is tight & solid.
Thanks for the idea.

[Terry Mac]

Dave, that is an awesome work bench!

[Don]

Hey, Bogy. That's your boy right there. Well done. Your bolt hole should pass on through the nut hole so it does not bottom out on the other side of the hole with future tightenings. You discovered the end grain issue. Sometimes we get too caught up in making everything out of wood. The spacers would have worked well out of plastic, HDF, any phenolic board or Baltic birch ply. Looks like you've got it figured out.

I'm sure the glue is a premium because of your location. I would expect it to be around $20-$25 anywhere else. We used to buy it by the 45lb cardboard drum. The furniture industry uses it (or did) by the truckload. Glue is simply kinda expensive.

Thanks for taking the time to post the play by play pics. These will be real valauable to guys in the future.

dawjr

[bogydave]

When I drilled the holes from the end into the pocket I drilled them about 1/2 inch thru the pocket, (can't see it in the pic) & I use a 7/16" bit so there is room to hand turn the bolt and room for the threads to go thru the nut aways. I'm going to stop by the nearby Custom cabinate, countertop business & see if they have a 3ft + wide sander. Myabe they'll sand the top for a nominal fee once its all glued up. I'll ask them what glue they use. Might be the plastic resin still.

Thanks Terry Mac