Issues with Ryobi miter saw.........

[Dr. Jim]

Well,....
Due to needing to do 6" beveled crosscuts I thought I would get a larger miter saw.
Went to HD and bought a $200 Ryobi 12" model.
Got home. Got it going,....and checked blade square and such which was spot on.
However, if you set it to do a 45dg bevel crosscut (not compound,...just a 45dg bevel straight cut).....guess what?
It's off.

Angle to the blade reveals a 1/8" difference from one end of the blade to the other. Thats nice.
Take it back to HD,.....check the one on display,....same thing.
Apparently, a 45dg bevel crosscut is to much to ask for?
Salesman basically said, HD doesn't care as long as they sell. Again: Nice.

Took angle on a more $$$ Ridgid, and it is much, much better.
Although I must admist it still isnt perfect!

What do you have to spend on a saw to get a completely straight 45dg bevel cut on 1x6?

[Don]

Hey, Jim. Something is wrong. Today's machines are made by machines and they are usually very good, even for the cheapest models.

From what you are describing, you are saying that everything is perfect at square and 90 degrees bevel, if you tilt the head 45 degrees and make a cut, it is no longer square. I can't even imagine this because the pivot would have to be machined incorrectly.

Sometimes cutting a bevel will "pull" the material on the bed or cause a "loose" saw to climb; either will give the illusion of the saw set to a different angle.

Anyway with that being said and taking what you are describing for a fact - I don't have any recommendations. I'm not familiar with all of the models, but from what I've seen the quality of all the lines are pretty strict. If they weren't your name would be mud pretty quick and Ryobi has been at this a while. You may want to take another look to see if there was the opportunity to do some adjustments. I can see an error in adjustments happening in the factory, but a machining error - highly doubtful. This means that you most likely could adjust it, shouldn't have too, but there it is.

More money spent on miter saws will get you more capability among the major brands, the quality shouldn't be an issue. Making the proper cuts is their basic goal or they won't sell any and the word will get out pretty quick (like you just did)

I'm sure others will defend different brands as being better than the others - I've seen the DeWalt saws in thousands of jobsite visits. These things get knocked around a bit and keep on plugging away.

Good luck, dawjr

[Dr. Jim]

Everything you say makes sense.

But,...the test is pretty simple as far as I can tell.

Lay a 45dg L angle againse the fence and the blade (with blade in down position). The L angle sits perfectly against the fence, with the angle going down the blade and touching the blade the entire distance (flat, along the choke). Turn it up now and do the same thing vertically along the blade. Sits fine and touches blade.

Now,...turn blade bevel to 45dg. Pull blade into down position through choke.
Take 45dg angle and do same test,...lay it flat against the fence and slide it till angle is touching blade at fence,.....look at the angle edge as it follows the entire blade distance. It is OFF. It no longer rests against the blade the entire distance,....by the farthest end (away from the fence)...the gap between angle edge and blade is almost 1/8"

I am no pro (not even close!)....but this seems pretty obvious to me?
And like I said,...went back to HD,...and tried the same test on another Ryobi, same model. And same gap!!
Tried a few of the more $$$ Ridgids and Dewalts,...SAME TEST,...and? NO GAP.

hmmmmmmmmmmmm

[Don]

I'm at a loss then. What you are describing can be envisioned as the table not being level front to back, i.e. it is falling toward the floor on the front edge; this would not be evident at square and 90. If the square is not laid perfectly flat on the table (or is bent) this would give the illusion as well.

If you still have the saw, how does it cut? Does this same anomaly show up then? You should be able to lay the saw over, make your bevel cut, the piece will read square. If not. There should be a way to adjust it. In this case, it may be where the mechanism attaches to the table.

Like Gump says, "That's all I've got to say about that." Good luck.

dawjr

[Dr. Jim]

Ridgid miter saw MS1250LZA.

Another great simpleton issue. However, there is an issue that is probably "me", or possibly 2 "off" miter saws from 2 different manufacturers?

I initially bought a Ryobi 12" saw,....got home,...did some straight accross 45dg bevel cuts and they were off by 1/8". I put a square to the blade and the table: at 90dg it was on,..and 45dg (bevel, not miter) it was off 1/8".
Returned the saw, and bought a more $$ Ridgid model.

This saw's blade appears to be true. However, when doing a straight cut, 45dg bevel, the cut still comes out a bit off, meaning the cut is not square?
I am applying a great deal of pressure to the wood,.....yet this is still the case.

I also notice the 'crappy' laser is not true either. Ofcourse I have adjusted it. Yet when you fire the saw, the laser shows across the cutting surface,...as you lower the saw, the laser line actually moves! It moves accross the wood a distance maybe 1/4" as you lower the blade! This renders the laser pretty useless,....unless I am really missing something? Fine with using the blade to align,....however this laser movement concerns me?

I am using a diablo finish blade,....not the stock 40tooth blade. Although the cut issues presented with the stock blade.

With non-square cuts? On 2 different make saws?....I would assume this to be me,....but how hard is it to simply lock the miter at 0, angle the blade at 45dg, and hold the wood tight while making a cut?

Thoughts?

Is there a www.makingmitercutsforidiots.com ?

[thekl0wn]

Are you using any keep of "in-feed" and "out-feed" tables to help brace up the wood? If so, you might try clamping the boards down to hold them. I've had the same issue before, and the only cure I ever came up with was using a Quick-Grip or two to aid in not letting the material be pushed or pulled into the blade.

[Dr. Jim]

I have a miter saw stand which provides accurate adjustable height for the infeed and outfeed,....and I have also used short stock as well.

I place a blocking board on top, and use the built in work clamp which exerts pressure locking the infeed piece to the fence. While this does lock it vertically to the table,...I also exert a good deal of vertical pressure manually as well.

Maybe I just need more practice,....although I woulda thought a 45dg straight bevel cut wouldnt require so much fussing :-)

[Don]

The laser is not in the same plane as the blade, which it must be. There has to be adjustments for that.

I don't know of a mitre cuts for idiots, Jim. This can be a tough subject though as you are finding out. I still side with the machine on this, it's going to be a matter of adjustments, set-up and controlling of the material as kl0wn has noted.

Take your time, look closely at what the saw is doing when it makes the cut. Mitre saw tables are small because they are making these things for jobsite use, you have to use a support outrigger for longer material. If you are holding the material very tightly I would consider another method. Get a sawhorse outboard and clamp a piece of wood to it at the correct height. Then clamp the material to the saw if needed.

The set up of the work space is important to having a good outcome and enjoying the job. Sounds like you are getting frustrated, this usually comes from being out of one's element. Go about it step by step, take your time, be one with the wood. By the time you are halfway through you will be more confident. You are tackling a job that would be good work for a professional, go easy on yourself - you'll get it.

[Dr. Jim]

Thanks Don,....I think I agree with you.

But, I suppose I have to start somewhere!

I have already made a hanging shadowbox, and this weekend a small jewelry box to practice mitering both 1X stock and trim as well. Stained them,...and they are well......interesting. So I have been having some fun as well! Just not enjoying all the sanding and such to square the miter cuts that should be straight to begin with.

Try making a box out of 4 pieces of 1X that all have slightly off mitered corners ;-)


thx again!

[Dr. Jim]

http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10862&highlight=ridgid+miter

Interesting,...not saying it isnt me. But there are many, many incidents of Ridgid (made by same people who make Ryobi) having the same issue with various Ridgid saws.

Above link is one of many examples.

[Don]

Well, I'll be dipped in compost. As Roseanne Rosannadana would say, "never mind."

[Dr. Jim]

Yup.

Take it back to THD, and get a 12" Dewalt cms.

Take it home,....square it (out of box it was slightly off at 0dg).

After squaring it makes perfect 45dg bevels no problem. Beautiful.
Nice saw too,...seems to be much smoother than the Ridgid or Ryobi.

[Don]

Okay, then. We should be seeing pictures of some sweet woodwork pretty soon.

Good luck,

dawjr